Category Archives: South Korea

The New Normal

I’m sure there’s a way to describe going on holiday to the warmth of a latitude closer to the equator. I’m just out of practice in using it and I’ve forgotten.

That must sound a little snobby to someone who’s never lived thru a traditional winter closer to the poles. But trust me, coming back to that climate simultaneously sucks and blows. And since the weather turned here in Seoul, I find winter fashion to be bittersweet. I do enjoy wearing long sleeves and some sweaters, but as much as I’m loving my new LL Bean parka for its rugged good looks, it’s 650-fill goose down, and the faux fur lining in the hood, I resent having to wear it, or anything like it so as not to freeze.

It’s payback, I know that. And for the next 18 months at least, I’ll be enjoying the seasons. Maybe enough to last the rest of our lives.

We head out for Bali on Monday. Very much looking forward to it.

Everyday…

… is a winding road, isn’t it?

Who would have thought that Sheryl Crow would have been so right.

In my case everyday is a slippery winding road…

Backtrack a bit

Yesterday that road was lightly dusted with snow. The dog freaked out during her morning walk, running back and forth in the less-than-an-inch dusting we got here in Suji. Meanwhile, I struggled not to slip and fall during my afternoon walk to the bus stop. And then again walking up and down the Myeongdong Cathedral hill and then the next one up to the station in Jung-gu.

Show went off without a hitch and based on the previous day’s experience with the subway, I headed for the bus stop.

Took the express bus toward home and then on to our favorite BBQ joint which was bought out for the evening. Major bummer.

Today I got into the city a little earlier as snow was expected. As I was sipping my Americano at a windowside table at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf in Myeongdong (a place I choose more for this amazing view of the shopping street below), the white stuff began in earnest.

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And as I had predicted a few months ago, the hill toward the radio station got me. At one point while walking up, I lost my footing a little (boot slipped) and knew that it was inevitable. I was gonna drop. I tried fruitlessly to adjust my feet but it was too late. I was all Paul Simon. I vaguely remember my school science: The road had warmed the dusting that had fallen maybe thirty minutes before and then when more snow fell, it froze up quite nicely.

I landed on my left side soaking my jeans but barely making it thru the ‘military-grade, fleece-lined’ thermals I had on underneath. In truth I’m sure my pride and ego was more bruised than any part of my body but I’ll know tomorrow for sure.

I told the barista at the in-house coffee shop at the station and after I confirmed I was okay, she chuckled. I told her we were thru and that I wanted a divorce.

On the bright side, Rooney seemed to love the snow on her afternoon walk.

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Unreal Korea

You know, I was never really homesick in Cayman. There were times I missed living in the ‘civilized world’ but the friends and, yes, climate made it an easier place to call home.

Don’t get me wrong: I still very clearly remember the life of being a second class citizen in a small Caribbean country. You stay there for seven years and it’s hard to forget having to contend with people yelling “Go back to your country!” at you when you don’t acquiesce and let them cut you off while driving. Or hearing “My bredren work at Immigration, I can have you kicked off the island,” or even having a bogus file of complaints submitted to the Honourable Work Permit Board.

But lemme tell you this, I miss the heck out of the USA and Cayman right now.

And not just because of the distance and time differences of my favorite tv shows and sporting events. Tech mitigates those issues quite well thankyouverymuch.

It is partially because I couldn’t go to Baltimore when my grandfather passed away. Ok, that one is distance. But it’s more the sheer inconvenience of it.

Yes, there are some fundamental cultural politeness issues. That’s rich coming from me, I know, but it’s true. The pushing and shoving and overall vibe of animosity is right up there w/ New York and there’s a reason I don’t want to live in that city.

Also, there’s an interesting thing about the expats here. They take on a more native thing and say, “you have to adapt to that if you want it to work out.”

Well, that’s just it, isn’t it?

Like maybe the type of people that are expats in Asia are totally different than the type of expats in the Caribbean. And interestingly enough, some of the challenges have come from ‘fellow Americans’ who’ve become power-grabbing opportunists, competing with each other instead of working on the same team. Which is a direct reflection of the duality of Korean community ‘all-for-one’ while simultaneously stressing ‘be the top in your class/field/whatever no matter what the cost.’

Crazy, right?

I just don’t feel at home here the way I did in Cayman, Philadelphia, or Baltimore.

Really didn’t expect that.

So yeah, I’m a little homesick for friends and family and the feeling of community that comes from both.

Happy Time Thanksgiving

Giving thanks

This will be my eighth Thanksgiving away from the USA; Jenn’s as well.

We both moved to Cayman in 2006, and don’t think (!) we ever went back “home” for Thanksgiving once we got there.

We’ve always missed our families, albeit in different ways.  I’ve had a few chances to call and Skype during the family meal, but Jenn has worked in a British school system for the last few years where the holiday is not observed, so she’s missed out on those chats during her family’s meal. And my mother has frequently taken a photo of us and placed it on the table for us just like we were there.

This year it’s different.  We’re both having trouble grappling with this holiday this year.  Not that we don’t have a lot to be thankful for, but unfortunately we’ve all too aware of what we’re lacking versus what we have.  Which is not really the point of the holiday; and that makes me feel a little more weird…

Like maybe I should snap out of it and be freakin’ happy to be alive and healthy and have a wonderful wife and dog and cat and roof over my head and warm clothes to wear and food to eat… and that there are people out there who don’t have any of that.

But… it’s all relative.  And the fact is that I don’t think we’ve ever felt more alone for Thanksgiving then we do this year.

Away from the family home is one thing…  away from family itself is another… and away from the people who were our adopted family is just plain brutal.

We’re going to a brewpub for Thanksgiving this year.  I’m sure it’ll be nice, but it won’t be Copper Falls in Cayman for the third year with friends we’ve had for over four years, and it won’t be our place in Mystic Retreat where we hosted American Thanksgiving the year before that (where I cooked the turkey accidentally upside down), where even though I’d just been ousted from a job, I was surrounded by loved ones… but really, it certainly won’t be home.

Slowly snowing in Seoul 18 Nov 2013

FriendSurfing

Ultimately it’s probably a good thing that I have a couple of hours each day where I’m on the bus into Seoul with my thoughts and no distractions. I try to avoid the internet and disconnect for a while and either listen to some music or finish playing Words With Friends.

As a result of this me time I’ve been thinking about people and things Jennifer and I have left behind in Cayman and how much we miss not necessarily the place itself, which we do, of course, but we also miss the strange and wonderful people a place like a small island in the Caribbean attracts.

Not to say that after a few years in Asia wouldn’t be a similar thing, but it will never completely replace the close friendships created in Cayman… Nor should it.  We only hope we’ll be able to forge similar relationships; those that will last.

And then I wonder if Korea will be the last stop before going back to the USA.  Or if we’re fated to spend more time either in Europe or somewhere else and how we never really know where the road will go and that we should try to keep our eyes off our miniture pocket display screens and watch the scenery go by… because nothing lasts forever.

Oh yeah, it snowed here today.  Joy.

 

Baby, you’re a firework

Jenn & I went to the Seoul International Fireworks Festival on Saturday night along with about 5 million other Seoulites.  There were a few different ‘shows’ within the evening… some better than others, but all were pretty amazing.

And Sunday, on our travels, we stumbled on a different set of seemly random fireworks in Pangyo (which we later figured out was part of a foreigner festival).

Quite a difference, no?

Then to cap off the entire Sunday, we visited Craftworks Taphouse in Pangyo.  I highly recommend the Craftworks Burger.

Craftworks Burger: "A big-boy burger! Our flame-grilled beef burger with Cheddar & Pepperjack cheeses, pulled pork, smoky bacon, sauteed onions, roasted bell peppers, and our house-made chipotle mayo, lettuce and tomato."

Craftworks Burger: “A big-boy burger! Our flame-grilled beef burger with Cheddar & Pepperjack cheeses, pulled pork, smoky bacon, sauteed onions, roasted bell peppers, and our house-made chipotle mayo, lettuce and tomato.”

Autumn

It’s October 1 and I’m sitting in a coffee shop in Myeongdong Shopping Street chilling before a meeting. The air outside is cool enough for me to be wearing a jumper over a t-shirt and be perfectly comfortable. I also have on a scarf, dark blue jeans and a new pair of Ecco slip-ons. I’ve missed Autumn and the sense of closure that it brings to a year. Living somewhere without the seasons time stands still, whereas here in Seoul, the leaves will be changing colors and the air will get chillier. Winter won’t be fun, but it’ll make spring bloody awesome.

Pop Phil

Like the pine trees lining the winding road

So I went to the Korean JCC/Chabad House to pick up a memorial candle for my grandfather who passed away last Sunday.

Luckily, there was a sign pointing the way as I meandered through the small alleyways of Itaweon to find the place.

Chabad Korea

Chabad Korea

I finally found the house (very telling as there was a Succot in the front yard), and as I walked in I saw many pairs of men’s shoes in the entryway,  I knocked on the doorframe and the Rebbe came up from the basement wearing a Talis.  I explained that I was looking for a memorial candle and he said, sure, and they were reading the Torah and asked me to join him.  As we walked downstairs, he asked a couple of times if I was Jewish, and whether my mother was Jewish.

Long story short: I was gifted with an alliyah (an honor – I read the blessing before and after the reading of a portion of the Torah) and as I stood there in front of the holy scroll, I felt my grandfather’s presence there in the basement of a seemly random house in South Korea.

Rebbe gave me a candle, offered to light it with me but gracefully declined. Thanks Phil for reminding me of who I am.

Schneeballen Sunday

Under normal circumstances, there’s a certain calm to The Four Hour Body’s regular regimen. It’s best described by someone from the book by calling it ‘The freedom of no choice.’

The real challenge comes in when that no choice isn’t possible with presently available options, or as I’ve come to discover, there is a certain haphazardness with which cheat day rolls around.

Just because you can do a specific thing doesn’t mean you should do a certain thing, or even that you have to do a certain thing.

I’ve been pondering taking a different approach to my cheat days to get them to take a slightly different form.

Not a wholesale change in the what I eat specifically, but the plan of attack.

All of this is just a long winded way to say that with so many options in Korea, sometimes it’s better to keep your options open.

So I didn’t really have a monster day on Sunday, but the halavah I got at the Salaam Bakery in Itaewon was delicious, and the Chinese-American food at Ho Lee Chow in Myeondong was very good (eaten Korean-style by sharing one entree), the Dunkin Donuts NY ‘cronut’ was still a little lacking, the Pizza School beefmeat pizza (yes, a real thing) sufficed in place of the Italian restaurant that we wanted to go to but was closed, and one of the two schneeballen we got last week at Hyundai Dept Store paired excellently with both the Haagen Dazs vanilla and chocolate fondant I got at the gourmet GS25.

Halavah

Halavah

Ho Lee Chow lunch

Ho Lee Chow lunch

Schneeballen w/ Haagen Dazs

Schneeballen w/ Haagen Dazs

Happy Chuseok e’erbody!